![]() ![]() The very top surface of the PVA re-activates slightly, and the skim bonds beautifully. When you let it dry, it becomes a superb surface to skim on to. Ok, I know it's meant to be tacky, but if you get it even slightly wrong, you'll be very unhappy. If you try to skim over still-wet PVA, then you'll find out why it's not a good idea (troweling on oil comes to mind). Ok, here's the easy bit - let it dry fully. The second coat can be pretty much neat, or thinned very slightly if it makes it easier to apply. Ok, are you a DIYer? Do you just want to be able to carry out the odd bit of skimming for yourself, or do you want to learn to do it like a pro? If the answers are 'yes', and 'odd bit', then read on.Īpply the PVA as described above - the first coat slightly thinned (read the instructions), and when fully dry, apply the second. I'm sure the Thistle Bondit mentioned above is great stuff, but you should get away with PVA if you want to go that way. Followed off with a good wash down using sugar soap. On really bad walls (I think 60's-70's paste must be particularly yucky stuff), I've had to spray a little water on to the walls, allow it to soak into the paste, and then scrape them down using a squeegee. ![]() I have found that any traces of old wall paper paste can be an absolute swine as it re-activates when anything water-based is applied to it - emulsion, PVA, etc - and it expands and can make your job a mess.Ĭertainly before painting, you'll have to thoroughly remove all traces - you might get away with it if PVA-ing instead, but it's a risk. ![]() I guess you've done the job now? If so, what did you do,and how did it go? ![]()
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